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A stripped bolt is a metaphor for many painful projects. As part of a simple task, it should work in one way, but on the contrary, it turns into a nightmare that lasts for hours, allowing you to pace to the end of the lane in anger at will.

In the eyes of peers, beating a stripped bolt is basically the beginning of becoming a certified wrench. It offers the most important lesson any mechanic can carry with him: be patient. Patience is the key to completing any automotive project, and breaking frozen bolts is one of the ultimate tests. Fortunately, there are also ancient solutions to this ancient problem. 

With a certain degree of determination, a large amount of penetrant, the possibility of a blowtorch, and the right tools, there is no bolt that you can't beat. This is an information game plan made by your friends on The Drive to get W.

A peeled bolt is a bolt whose head is rounded due to aging or misuse. With rounded edges, sockets and wrenches cannot grasp the bolt to gain the leverage to turn the bolt. When the bolts are rusty, the bolts are cross-threaded, or someone uses an incorrect socket or wrench size on the bolts, peeling bolts are usually produced.

Estimated time required: 10 minutes to 1 life cycle

Skill level: beginner to expert

Vehicle system: any or all

Working on your car can be dangerous and messy, so this is what you need to make sure you don’t die, puncture your eyes, or lose a finger in the process.

A sleeve designed to remove peeled bolts may work.

You may or may not need these tools. We have listed all the tips and options for removing bolts.

Organize your tools and equipment so that everything is within reach, which will save precious time, waiting for your dexterous child or four-legged assistant to bring you sandpaper or blowtorch. (You may eventually need a blowtorch to do the job. Please don't let your child pass you a blowtorch-Ed.)

You also need a flat work space, such as a garage floor, driveway, or a well-ventilated street parking lot. Check your local laws to make sure that you are not violating any regulations when using the street, because we will not let your riding out of trouble.

Before trying the next step, we have tried to organize these methods in the order you want to try. See what works for you, and good luck!

Penetrants such as PB Blaster are designed to break down rust or other dirt that locks nuts or bolts in place. Spraying the rusty area with penetrant and allowing it to soak may damage the bonded area and lubricate the bolts.

If you can move the bolt slightly before it starts to peel off, try to screw it back and then unscrew it again. Try to repeat it several times, it can loosen the bolt completely. The more permeable liquid is your friend. 

Vise-Grips has several different locking methods.

Any locking pliers like Vise-Grips is a great choice that everyone should have in the garage. If you can apply enough pressure to the bolt, the teeth may be able to provide enough grip to turn the bolt.

Not everyone will have this, but there are specially designed sleeves that can better hold the peeling bolts called extraction sleeves. It may or may not work.

In some cases, the bolt will be round, and you can use a hammer to install a smaller wrench or socket on it. If it is hammered, it should have more grip, hopefully the bolts will loosen.

Use a blowtorch-finally, light it! -Heat the bolts. The expansion and contraction of the metal can damage the bolt and cause it to turn.

If the goal is to break the bond between the rust and the bolt, a little impact on the bolt may be effective. Start with tapping and use conscious movements. If you are not careful, you may break the thread and make the situation worse.

Many manufacturers offer bolt extraction kits specifically designed for this frustrating situation. Most include a toothed tapered tip that can go deep into the metal and grab it for better grip.

Using a Dremel tool or other type of cutter or grinder, cut a slit in the head of the bolt. Then, using a flat-head screwdriver or something that fits into the slit, try to use the lever to loosen the bolt.

In the worst case, you must resort to drilling out the bolts. Only do this if you are completely satisfied with the power tool and have the correct drill bit for the job. Take your time, starting from a little bit, and slowly expand the hole until the bolt loosens or breaks.

This really does a lot, you must have a welder, but we want to make it a possible option. In extreme cases, you can weld unused square bolt heads to old bolts. This should provide you with the grip required to break the old bolt, but you may also round that bolt.

Although The Drive likes to let "you" do it yourself, we know that not everyone has the right tools, a safe working space, free time, or the confidence to solve major car maintenance problems. Sometimes, you only need professionals you can trust (such as our partners, Goodyear Tire and service company certified technicians) to perform high-quality repair work.

We are here for all How-To related expert guides. Use us, praise us, yell at us. Leave a comment below and let's talk! You can also yell at us on Twitter or Instagram, this is our profile.

Jonathan Klein: Twitter (@jonathon.klein), Instagram (@jonathon_klein)

Tony Markovic: Twitter (@T_Marko), Instagram (@t_marko)

Chris Teague: Twitter (@TeagueDrives), Instagram (@TeagueDrives)

PB B'Laster penetrating oil, 12 packs

Kano Kroil penetrating oil, 1 gallon

Irwin Vise-Grip original locking pliers set

Is there a problem? Are there any professional tips? Leave us a message: guidesandgar@thedrive.com

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